Dear all,
Thanks for following my blog this summer. Its really been a summer for the books, and I'm glad I had a chance to share bits and pieces of it with you. I'm sorry I didn't update super often, but I have no patience with slow internet. I hope you have all had a chance to learn a little about Iran and maybe even learn a little about me. I know I sure did.
All the best & hugs,
Mona
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Sunday, July 19, 2009
In all likelihood, my last post before returning to the U.S.
Whew friends, time has really flown by. In some ways, I can't believe that two months has gone by, and at the same time I can believe it. There are about 2,000 pictures to prove it has been two months, but when I think about events and stuff, it doesn't add up. I'm tearing up just thinking about leaving. I totally love this place.
I couldn't have asked for a better summer. Excitement, learning, adventures...
Speaking of adventures, two nights ago, we decided to go to Esfahan (a twelve hour bus ride round-trip), leaving at 1am on Friday and coming back Saturday at midnight. It was quite possibly one of the best adventures ever. Beautiful sights from the Safavid period AND I met this really cute PhD student from Princeton who was doing his doctorate in Middle Eastern studies. Totally gorgeous, smart, AND I have his phone number. It's a real shame I'm headed back to the states. Real shame. Mmm.DAMN.
Our flight leaves on Tuesday at 3:20am. Back to the U.S. *sigh* (both of relief and sadness)
This trip, I've really realized how much I straddle the line of my two cultures, and the more I understand the depths of both, the more I feel like I don't fit in either, but you know what I've realized?
No one said I have to fit in either. I always assumed that I had to choose.
I couldn't have asked for a better summer. Excitement, learning, adventures...
Speaking of adventures, two nights ago, we decided to go to Esfahan (a twelve hour bus ride round-trip), leaving at 1am on Friday and coming back Saturday at midnight. It was quite possibly one of the best adventures ever. Beautiful sights from the Safavid period AND I met this really cute PhD student from Princeton who was doing his doctorate in Middle Eastern studies. Totally gorgeous, smart, AND I have his phone number. It's a real shame I'm headed back to the states. Real shame. Mmm.DAMN.
Our flight leaves on Tuesday at 3:20am. Back to the U.S. *sigh* (both of relief and sadness)
This trip, I've really realized how much I straddle the line of my two cultures, and the more I understand the depths of both, the more I feel like I don't fit in either, but you know what I've realized?
No one said I have to fit in either. I always assumed that I had to choose.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Highlights from the last week or so.
Cool things that I've done this week:
-Gone to the National Museum of Iran (Museh Iran Bastan) and The Golestan Castle (Kaakh-e-Golestan). The National Museum had relics from prehistory all the way to the Selucids (right before the Islamic period). I only wish I had taken an archeology class before I went. My cousin wants to get her masters in archaelogy so she explained everything to me, but I wish I would have known more about archaelogy in general. Oh well. It was absolutely gorgeous and I loved every minute of it. It was just freaking CRAZY hot. It's been like 42 degrees C the entire week.
Kaakh-e-Golestan was really beautiful. It was built during the Qajar period (This trip to Iran has been very Qajar focused) by a couple different Shahanshahs of Iran (Fath'Ali, Nassereddin, Mozza'fareddin, AhmadShah). Their architecture is really interesting. They have western influences but within an Iranian tapestry. They have the mosaics displaying the Haft-Khan-e-Rostam and at the same time have marble busts that were gifts. The Qajars got a TON of gifts from outside countries--especially Russia. They mirrored a ton of stuff they got. The first clock ever in Iran is housed in the Kaakh-e-Golestan. It was brought to Iran after Mozza'fareddin took a trip to Europe. All of the Qajar built bulidings have gorgeous gatch-kari, (see Kashan entry) and ayeneh-kari, which is tiny pieces of mirror cut to decorate walls and ceilings. Speaking of ceilings, there was a room that had a ceiling decorated with gatch and ayeneh kari that was created especially to mirror the Persian carpet that was on the floor. SO PRETTY. The Qajars were totally super rich. Like OBSCENE. So many pretty things.
-Gone to the Baazar. Each city center has a Baazar, mosque, and houses. The center of Tehran is home to a huge Baazar. It is unlike anything else I've ever seen and p.s. is totally awesome and Ibought a ton of stuff. Everything there is like half the price of outdoor stores (and then think of how cheap that is in US dollars) and you haggle and it's unlike anything I've ever seen. I paid the equvalent of $1.25 for a round trip ticket with the metro, which everyone says if there is ever an earthquake in Tehran, everyone who rides the train (TONS) will be totally screwed and be crushed underneath the city. Anyways, they have special cars for ladies. They call them "Special Train Ladies Car" and it's nice because men aren't staring at you, but its terrible because there are tons of ladies hawking crap like hair clips, nail files, scarves, and skin cream that don't let you sit in peace. Nice, huh? Anyways, we got there and hit the ground running, buying all kinds of stuff. You can buy anything from foodstuffs, to fancy china, to jewelry, to a roll of designer labels and buttons for real cheap. Just a roll of labels that says Versace or D&G or Gucci for the equivalent of less than 5 dollars. So funny.
Anyways, there were about a floppity jillion people in the Baazaar, smells of spices all around, and all kinds of people hawking random merchandise, inspecting goods, and haggling anywhere there was room to stand. Oh, and it was more confusing to find your way around than the hardest corn maze I've ever been in. All the passages have names, but none of them are posted. You just have to learn by doing. All the ceilings are in the tradition muslim arch, but the passageways are quite narrow. Luckily, my aunt was there to guide us around. My anthropologists sense was tingling the whole time. What better place to get a real taste of Iran than the Baazar? You're practically bathing in culture! Any time you want to buy something, the salesperson ALWAYS says ghabel-e-shoma-nadareh, which means something to the effect of "for you, it's free", which they don't actually mean and you do have to pay, but they always pay respect, even to gharibeh, which means strangers. You also cannot ever speak on the phone with someone without first taking a few minutes to ask how the person is doing, what they are up to, and how their family is doing before getting down to business.
Speaking of strangers, I went jewelry shopping with my aunt (no, I didn't buy anything). While we were there, there was a woman who was trying to get taghfif, which means discount, on a coin called a sekkeh which is pure gold that is worth about $250 because supposedly one of the salesmen at the jewelry store broke her chain. My aunt told her about this place that fixes jewelry that we were going to visit after the jewelry store to pick up my ring that needed a new stone. Anyways, my aunt said to this stranger lady, come along with me. I'm going there anyways, so this strange woman just came in our car and we drove her over to the jewlery fixer guy. In the middle of Tehran! It was so strange for me to watch. I told Sara about it later and she was totally shocked. When I asked my aunt why she told that stranger to come with us in our car, she started talking about how God says we all must be teachers, and that by helping that woman, we were doing our part to help that woman in her life. Interesting philosophy.
-Went to Kaahk-e-Niavaran, which is another castle complex built by the Qajars and then later modified by the Pahlavis. The Pahlavis, I have decided, were total idiots. Spent too much money. Especially Reza Shah, who was totally whipped by his third wife, Farah Diba, who I think secretly wanted to be French.
Besides that, I love baby animals. Actually baby anything. Today with my cousins kid, we played a game called "Jumping". You'll never guess what it entails. Perhaps you might. It involves jumping up and down until someone gets tired. Sometimes we listen to this song she really likes called "Dasta Bala", which means "hands in the air". This is literally her favorite game. Either that, or "Lets push buttons on Mona's computer until she lets me play that Cake game on Vista"
-Gone to the National Museum of Iran (Museh Iran Bastan) and The Golestan Castle (Kaakh-e-Golestan). The National Museum had relics from prehistory all the way to the Selucids (right before the Islamic period). I only wish I had taken an archeology class before I went. My cousin wants to get her masters in archaelogy so she explained everything to me, but I wish I would have known more about archaelogy in general. Oh well. It was absolutely gorgeous and I loved every minute of it. It was just freaking CRAZY hot. It's been like 42 degrees C the entire week.
Kaakh-e-Golestan was really beautiful. It was built during the Qajar period (This trip to Iran has been very Qajar focused) by a couple different Shahanshahs of Iran (Fath'Ali, Nassereddin, Mozza'fareddin, AhmadShah). Their architecture is really interesting. They have western influences but within an Iranian tapestry. They have the mosaics displaying the Haft-Khan-e-Rostam and at the same time have marble busts that were gifts. The Qajars got a TON of gifts from outside countries--especially Russia. They mirrored a ton of stuff they got. The first clock ever in Iran is housed in the Kaakh-e-Golestan. It was brought to Iran after Mozza'fareddin took a trip to Europe. All of the Qajar built bulidings have gorgeous gatch-kari, (see Kashan entry) and ayeneh-kari, which is tiny pieces of mirror cut to decorate walls and ceilings. Speaking of ceilings, there was a room that had a ceiling decorated with gatch and ayeneh kari that was created especially to mirror the Persian carpet that was on the floor. SO PRETTY. The Qajars were totally super rich. Like OBSCENE. So many pretty things.
-Gone to the Baazar. Each city center has a Baazar, mosque, and houses. The center of Tehran is home to a huge Baazar. It is unlike anything else I've ever seen and p.s. is totally awesome and Ibought a ton of stuff. Everything there is like half the price of outdoor stores (and then think of how cheap that is in US dollars) and you haggle and it's unlike anything I've ever seen. I paid the equvalent of $1.25 for a round trip ticket with the metro, which everyone says if there is ever an earthquake in Tehran, everyone who rides the train (TONS) will be totally screwed and be crushed underneath the city. Anyways, they have special cars for ladies. They call them "Special Train Ladies Car" and it's nice because men aren't staring at you, but its terrible because there are tons of ladies hawking crap like hair clips, nail files, scarves, and skin cream that don't let you sit in peace. Nice, huh? Anyways, we got there and hit the ground running, buying all kinds of stuff. You can buy anything from foodstuffs, to fancy china, to jewelry, to a roll of designer labels and buttons for real cheap. Just a roll of labels that says Versace or D&G or Gucci for the equivalent of less than 5 dollars. So funny.
Anyways, there were about a floppity jillion people in the Baazaar, smells of spices all around, and all kinds of people hawking random merchandise, inspecting goods, and haggling anywhere there was room to stand. Oh, and it was more confusing to find your way around than the hardest corn maze I've ever been in. All the passages have names, but none of them are posted. You just have to learn by doing. All the ceilings are in the tradition muslim arch, but the passageways are quite narrow. Luckily, my aunt was there to guide us around. My anthropologists sense was tingling the whole time. What better place to get a real taste of Iran than the Baazar? You're practically bathing in culture! Any time you want to buy something, the salesperson ALWAYS says ghabel-e-shoma-nadareh, which means something to the effect of "for you, it's free", which they don't actually mean and you do have to pay, but they always pay respect, even to gharibeh, which means strangers. You also cannot ever speak on the phone with someone without first taking a few minutes to ask how the person is doing, what they are up to, and how their family is doing before getting down to business.
Speaking of strangers, I went jewelry shopping with my aunt (no, I didn't buy anything). While we were there, there was a woman who was trying to get taghfif, which means discount, on a coin called a sekkeh which is pure gold that is worth about $250 because supposedly one of the salesmen at the jewelry store broke her chain. My aunt told her about this place that fixes jewelry that we were going to visit after the jewelry store to pick up my ring that needed a new stone. Anyways, my aunt said to this stranger lady, come along with me. I'm going there anyways, so this strange woman just came in our car and we drove her over to the jewlery fixer guy. In the middle of Tehran! It was so strange for me to watch. I told Sara about it later and she was totally shocked. When I asked my aunt why she told that stranger to come with us in our car, she started talking about how God says we all must be teachers, and that by helping that woman, we were doing our part to help that woman in her life. Interesting philosophy.
-Went to Kaahk-e-Niavaran, which is another castle complex built by the Qajars and then later modified by the Pahlavis. The Pahlavis, I have decided, were total idiots. Spent too much money. Especially Reza Shah, who was totally whipped by his third wife, Farah Diba, who I think secretly wanted to be French.
Besides that, I love baby animals. Actually baby anything. Today with my cousins kid, we played a game called "Jumping". You'll never guess what it entails. Perhaps you might. It involves jumping up and down until someone gets tired. Sometimes we listen to this song she really likes called "Dasta Bala", which means "hands in the air". This is literally her favorite game. Either that, or "Lets push buttons on Mona's computer until she lets me play that Cake game on Vista"
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Time is Winding Down
In Iran, anything you can buy has a hub where all the stores for any given ware exists. We were at the one for books and stuff cause I was getting books for my research, and I found Barack Obama's books translated to Farsi!
Well friends, I'm at less than 2 weeks left in Iran. I can't believe time has gone by so quickly! I've become obsessed with this Iranian painter, Farshchian, who paints these beautiful paintings called miniatures, but they aren't actually miniatures and I don't know why they call them that. Anyways, they are gorgeous and I've gone crazy for the posters.
Also started buying DVDS (at a dollar a piece). I also got a DVD copy of Up, which I have to say was a very cute movie. I liked it a lot. I only bought like 6 the last time I was out, but I have plans to go out again sometime in the near future as soon as this damn dust storm gets out of Iran.
&hugs,
Mona
Well friends, I'm at less than 2 weeks left in Iran. I can't believe time has gone by so quickly! I've become obsessed with this Iranian painter, Farshchian, who paints these beautiful paintings called miniatures, but they aren't actually miniatures and I don't know why they call them that. Anyways, they are gorgeous and I've gone crazy for the posters.
Also started buying DVDS (at a dollar a piece). I also got a DVD copy of Up, which I have to say was a very cute movie. I liked it a lot. I only bought like 6 the last time I was out, but I have plans to go out again sometime in the near future as soon as this damn dust storm gets out of Iran.
&hugs,
Mona
Thursday, July 2, 2009
A fun few days
Hi all,
I'm working on the last of the postcards, so if you ordered one, they'll be in the mail by Saturday. Other than that, we spent a wonderful last couple of days doing things college kids do here in Iran. Turns out that means basically the same stuff as home--movies, restaurants, museums, and random outings. It's been really great. We went to an Americanish coffeeshop that ended up being more French than American. It was nice, though. The guy gave me the weirdest look when I asked for a coffee latte with a shot of espresso. What things I take for granted in the U.S... We then got in a bit of a fender bender that was more exciting to see how the system works there than anything else. The police that came to check out the situation had a cracked windshield. Then the guy who hit us was all like, give me your drivers license--to which we were like, aw-hell-nah. Anyways, no one was hurt, but the police were sketch.
The day after, we bummed. The day after that, we went to the national jewelry museum. It was legit baller. I don't know if there are pics on the internet of the swag in there, but it's worth an internet search. 96% of the jewels there are precious stones = diamonds, rubies, and emerald. I didn't know that things that aren't those three things are not considered precious stones. I guess it makes sense. I just never thought about that.
Yesterday, we (my cousins, sisters and I) went to see my first Iranian movies in Farsi. The movie was really depressing, but I was proud of myself for understanding it. The movie theater was also super chic and had the equivalent of $2 a ticket (expensive by their standards). The movie, Dahr Bareye Ellie, (About Ellie) had some actress who was also in a movie with Leonardo DiCaprio or something and everyone I guess made a big deal about it. They also have popcorn at movie theaters, according to my cousin. We got there late (those who are familiar with the Ghadiri family know this is usual) so we didn't have a chance to get snacks, but you can also get things like fries and hamburgers there. We did get dinner at this delicious restaurant that was really classy.
I'm working on the last of the postcards, so if you ordered one, they'll be in the mail by Saturday. Other than that, we spent a wonderful last couple of days doing things college kids do here in Iran. Turns out that means basically the same stuff as home--movies, restaurants, museums, and random outings. It's been really great. We went to an Americanish coffeeshop that ended up being more French than American. It was nice, though. The guy gave me the weirdest look when I asked for a coffee latte with a shot of espresso. What things I take for granted in the U.S... We then got in a bit of a fender bender that was more exciting to see how the system works there than anything else. The police that came to check out the situation had a cracked windshield. Then the guy who hit us was all like, give me your drivers license--to which we were like, aw-hell-nah. Anyways, no one was hurt, but the police were sketch.
The day after, we bummed. The day after that, we went to the national jewelry museum. It was legit baller. I don't know if there are pics on the internet of the swag in there, but it's worth an internet search. 96% of the jewels there are precious stones = diamonds, rubies, and emerald. I didn't know that things that aren't those three things are not considered precious stones. I guess it makes sense. I just never thought about that.
Yesterday, we (my cousins, sisters and I) went to see my first Iranian movies in Farsi. The movie was really depressing, but I was proud of myself for understanding it. The movie theater was also super chic and had the equivalent of $2 a ticket (expensive by their standards). The movie, Dahr Bareye Ellie, (About Ellie) had some actress who was also in a movie with Leonardo DiCaprio or something and everyone I guess made a big deal about it. They also have popcorn at movie theaters, according to my cousin. We got there late (those who are familiar with the Ghadiri family know this is usual) so we didn't have a chance to get snacks, but you can also get things like fries and hamburgers there. We did get dinner at this delicious restaurant that was really classy.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Back in Tehran
Hi all,
I know it's been a while since I've updated, but things have been blocked/internet was horrid slow & not worth updating. I'm back in Tehran now, after 2 weeks in Kelardasht. It's nice to be back.
More later, but just wanted to let you all know things are semi-calm here and people are getting on with their lives. Not happy, but moving on.
&hugs,
Mona
I know it's been a while since I've updated, but things have been blocked/internet was horrid slow & not worth updating. I'm back in Tehran now, after 2 weeks in Kelardasht. It's nice to be back.
More later, but just wanted to let you all know things are semi-calm here and people are getting on with their lives. Not happy, but moving on.
&hugs,
Mona
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Safe.
Safe at my family's house in Kelardasht near the Caspian Sea. Just in time, it seems, as 7 people were killed today in Tehran.
I don't know how long we'll be here, but I'm safe.
I don't know how long we'll be here, but I'm safe.
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